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Perfect Fitting System 



FOR 



Gutting kadies' Garments. 



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INVP;N TKI) 






MADAME M. A. LEGENDRE 

LOUISVILLE, KY. 



MADME LEGENDRE'S 



PERFECT FITTING SYSTEM 



FOR 



Gutting Ladies' Garments. 



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7 </■ ' L 



INVENTED 1?Y 




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MADAME M. A. LEGENDRE 



LOUISVILLE, KY. 



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Ik 



Y* 1 



COPYRIGHTED BY 



MADAME M. A. LEGENDRE, 



Sept. 2, 1889. 



All Rights Reserved. 







PRICE LIST. 



One System, with Oral Instructions $10 00 

One System 5 00 

For any one part. 

One Square 2 00 

One Instruction Book. 1 50 

One Set Scales 1 00 

One Measure Book 50 




Introductory Remarks 



In placing this work before the public, I feel that 
I will benefit my sex, supply a long felt want, and put 
within the reach of struggling women a safe and re- 
liable method of cutting by actual measurement, thus 
avoiding the annoyance of pinning-up and re-basting. 
It is so practically arranged that it will meet all the 
requirements of fashion and changes of style, fitting 
the figure perfectly without alterations It is equally 
adapted to irregular forms, fitting them with the same 
ease and accuracy. 

This System consists of one set of graduated 
Scales, an Instruction Book containing Diagrams, a 
curved Square, and a Measure Book. In the general 
get-up of this System, I have endeavored to have it 
accurate, practical, and simple, combining beauty, 
comfort, and symmetry. 



PERFECT FITTING SYSTEM. 

DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING MEASURES. 



To insure a perfect fit, the measures must be cor- 
rect; this is an important feature, and great care 
should be observed in this direction. Place a strap or 
band around the waist as tight as desired, taking care 
to adjust it so as to define the waist. Always take the 
point measure tight. 

MEASURES. 

Size of Bust 37 

Size of Waist 24 

Length of Back \b\ 

Width of Back 12 

Length of Shoulder 5 

Length of Side Seam 9 

Size of Arm Hole 16 

Width of Ches.t 18-13 

Length of Point over Shoulder 30^-28| 

Length of Front 12 

Size of Neck : 14 

Height of Dart b\ 

Size of Hip 40 

Inside of Arm to Elbow and Wrist 7^-15 

Outside of Arm from centre of Back 18-27 

Arm round Elbow and above 10-9 * 

Size of Hand 8 

Length of Skirt Front 39 



Length of Skirt Side 39J 

Length of Skirt Back 40^ 



MADAME LEGENDRES 



EXPLANATION OF MEASURES. 



The above is for a well proportioned figure. The 
first measure over largest part of bust must be easy ; 
the second or waist measure is taken tight. To obtain 
length of back, start from neck bone to bottom of waist; 
for width of back measure, across the back from arm 
to arm. 

For side seam measure, from arm pit to waist ; for 
arm hole, pass the line over the point of shoulder with 
three fingers under the line at top. I use two chest 
measures — first, over largest part of bust from under 
each arm, and second, two and one-half inches below 
neck from arm to arm. Measure entirely round neck. 

To obtain length of point, place the tape line to 
waist line in back, draw tightly over shoulder (half way) 
to bottom of waist line on front — this is very important, 
as it regulates the front of waist. 

Measure from neck to waist line for length of 
front, and from waist to top of dart or full part of bust 
for height. 

Hip is taken about four inches below waist line easy. 

For sleeve, put line from pit of arm to elbow, then 
to wrist for inside; from centre of back to elbow and 
wTist, arm bent, and in drafting deduct half of the 
width of back from this, and sleeve will be the exact 
length. Measure round elbow bent, then half way 
between elbow and armhole. 

Size of hand including thumb. 

Measure front side and back of skirt, 



PERFECT FITTING SYSTEM. 



RULES FOR DRAFTING. 



Hold the square firm and draw the lines smooth and evenly. Select scale 
corresponding with waist measure. 




BACK AND SIDE BODY. 



Place long arm on fold of goods and draw line 1, and while in this position 
draw line 2 on short arm of square, before moving dot on line 1 length of waist 
and draw line 3. Refer to measure for under arm seam, deduct % of inch from 
actual measure and draw line 4, ascertain number of inches between line 2 and 
4, divide this amount, allowing l / 2 inch more next to line 4 and draw line 5. 

Dot ^y z numbers of scale on line 2 for neck, obtain length of shoulder 
from measure taken and draw by curve of rule from 2j4 on line 2 to line 5. On 
line 3 dot one number of scale, from this \y 2 and \ l / 2 of scale, then draw line 6 
from intersection of lines 1 and 2 to 1 on line 3 ; width of back is obtained by 
actual measure on line 4, dot \ l / 2 inches on line 4 and draw line from this to 
point of shoulder, divide arm size, curve by rule from arm size to \}4> numbers 
on line 3. Side seam is curved from arm size on line 4 to \y 2 numbers on line 3. 

Extend lines ] and G for bottom of basque length desired, five inches: 
width of back 2)4, inches, width of side body 4 inches. Side body is curved 
over shoulder one number to prevent fullness, specially where the shoulder is 
round. 



MADAME LEGENDRE'S 




FRONT OF BASQUE. 

Place the square on fold of goods and draw line 1 entire length of square 
and before moving square draw line 2 on. the short arm. Obtain width of chest 
by actual measure and dot on line 2, from this draw line 5. To obtain length of 
point, apply measure to back from waist line to shoulder, then add on line 1 
sufficient to get the length desired for point, dot and draw line 3. 

Now dot on lines 2, 1 and 5 numbers of scale, dot on lines 3, 1 and 5 anp 
draw lines 6 and 7 from and to these numbers. 

Dot on line 3 at 2 numbers of scale, then dot 4 numbers on line 3 from line 
5, divide the amount between these dots, allowing 1 number for space and 
leaving one number more in back dart than in front. 

Dot 1 number on line 7, apply under arm measure, dot and draw line 4, 
on lines 5 and 6, 1 number is taken off to curve arm hole. 

On line 2, dot 3 numbers of scale for neck. Obtain length of front by 
measure and curve neck from this point to 3 on line 2. 

On line 1 dot 2^ inches below neck, refer to width of chest and dot half 
of measure; length of shoulder is obtained from measure. 

Curve arm hole from line 7 to 6 and 5 through dot for chest up to line 2 
length of shoulder as per diagram. Refer to measure for height of dart, draw line 
8 from this point on line 1 to line 7 about I inch below arm size, dot at 4 and iy z 
on line 8 for top of darts, then draw lines. Extend lines 5 inches for length of 
basque, curve darts and neck as per diagram, by the rule, use inches for width 
of basque at bottom. The dart in arm hole is traced in the lining and taken up 
before the goods is put on. 

Prove waist, bust, hips, arm size, neck and point by measure. 

The square will curve for hips and bottom of basque. 



PERFECT FIT T IXC SYSTEM. 




JERSEY OR JACKET BACK AND SIDE BODY. 



Drafted same as No. 1 except. on line 3, dot )/ z inch and draw line 6 to line 
2. Dot 3 and 7 numbers of scale on line 3. Obtain actual width of back from 
measure taken, to this add on 3 numbers of scale and curve by rule. 

Extend lines 1 and 6 nine inches, %y z inches on side seam. 



10 



MADAME LEGENDRE'S 




FRONT OF JERSEY OR JACKET. 



Draw line 1 same as in No. 1, draw line 2 and dot on it half the width of 
chest by measure and draw line 5, from this dot 1 number of scale. 

Obtain length of point by measure and draw line 3, then dot 1 number of 
scale from line 5 and draw 6, on line 6 dot one number of scale above line 3, 
apply measure for under arm and draw line 4. Dot on line 1 length of front, 
dot 3 numbers of scale on line 2 and curve neck by rule as per diagram. Get 
width of chest iy 2 inches below neck and dot half of amount for arm curve, 
dot length of shoulder on line 2, then curve arm hole from line 4, one number 
on 5 through dot to shoulder point on line 2. On line 3 dot % number scale, 
then 3 numbers for front, dot 5 numbers from line 5. 

Refer to height of dart and draw line 8 for top of dart and dot at 6. Ex- 
tend front of basque 9 inches, side 8)4 inches ; for width of bottom use inches. 

Prove the measures by tape line. 

For jackets or over-garments the chest and waist measures should be taken 
loose, and arm hole curved more. 



PERFECT FITTING SYSTEM. 



11 




BACK AND SIDE BODY FOR STOUT FIGURE. 



Drafted same as No. ], skirt extended 8 inches, ~y 2 on side. 



12 



MADAME LEGENDRE'S 




FRONT FOR STOUT FIGURE, BIAS DART. 



Drafted same as No. 1 with few exceptions, on line 2 after obtaining width 
of chest, add 1 number of scale and draw line 5, then dot J and 5 numbers 
of scale. 

Obtain point same as in No. 1, then dot 2 numbers on line 3 for front, 4 
numbers on same line from 5, then 1 and 5 and draw lines 6 and 7 from this 
point to 1 and 5 numbers on line 2. Divide the goods between 2 and 4 on line 
3, allowing 1 number for space, putting twice as much in the back dart as in the 
front. Refer to measure for under arm, observing the 1 number above line 3 
on 7, and draw line 4. Dot 1 number on 6 and 1^ on 5 for arm curve, get 
width of chest, length of front, dot for neck, curve neck and arm hole as per 
diagram. Refer to measure for height of dart and draw line 8, dot at 3 and 6)4 
numbers for top of darts, then draw lines and curve darts as per diagram. 

Extend lines length desired and prove by actual measure. 



PERFECT FITTIXG SYSTEM. 



J 3 




BACK OF FRENCH BASQUE. 



Draft same as No. 1, except for length of side seam deduct y z inch instead 
of % and use one inch from line 1 and draw line 6. 
Use 3*4 numbers for waist. 



14 



MADAME LEGENDR&S 



i®4 i 




FRONT OF FRENCH BASQUE. 



Draw lines 1 and 2 same as in No. 1. Refer to chest measure and draw 
line 5, dot one number of scale from 5, move scale and dot 4^£ numbers. Ob- 
tain length of point as before and draw line 3; on this line dot ^ of an inch 
from line 1, then 3 numbers for point. From line 5 dot 1 number, move scale 
and dot 4^, then draw line 6 from 1 on line 2 to 1 on line 3, draw line 7 from 
line 2 to line 3. 

Refer to height of dart and draw line 8, dot hy? for top of dart and draft 
as per diagram. Extend skirt length desired. 

The dart in arm hole is taken up in the lining. 



PERFECT FITTING SYSTEM. 



15 




BACK OF PRINCESS DRESS. 
Back of this gown is drafted as No. 1 to waist line, use 2 numbers of waist 
scale; an inch below waist line extend for pleats 1 1 / 2 inches on each side and 
back, then make skirt length desired, this is 43 inches in back, 42^ on side, 18 
inches wide. Always use scale to suit waist measure. 



16 



MADAME LEGENDRE'S 




SIDE BODY OF PRINCESS DRESS. 



Extend lines 3 and 4 same as for basque, curve for hips as per diagram ; 14 
inches wide at bottom, walking length. 



PERFECT FITTING SYSTEM. 
CM 



17 







<n 



FRONT OF PRINCESS DRESS. 

This front is drafted same as No. I with this exception, for under arm dart 
use 2 numbers of scale and extend five inches below waist line, extend the darts 
7 or 8 inches as per diagram. This front is 41 inches long, 22 inches wide. Tea 
gowns and wrappers are cut by this diagram and by slight changes in skirt 
portion, a stylish perfect fitting polonaise can be made. 



18 



MADAME LEGENDRE'S 




COAT SLEEVE. 



This sleeve is drafted from actual measurement, use the rule to do the curving. 

Place long arm of square on fold of goods or paper and draw line 1, before 
moving square draw line 2 on the short arm. 

On line 2 dot half the number of arm size and draw line 3, dot at 2)4, inches 
on this line, then take one-half of back width from this and dot at elbow, \y 2 
inches from elbow dot and draw line 4. Refer to measure and dot for inside of 
sleeve from line 4 to arm-pit and draw line 5; obtain length to wrist, dot and 
extend two inches beyond line I and draw line 8; dot width for hand, making 
the upper part two inches wider than the under part. Obtain size of round 
elbow, add one inch to half of the measure for upper part of sleeve, for instance 
if ten inches is the size, use six inches for the upper part and four inches for 
the under part. Curve by the rule for lines 6 and 7 as per diagram and prove 
the work. 



PERFECT FITTING SYSTEM. 



19 



evi 









^J 



FRONT OF WALKING SKIRT. 



Draw line No. 1 on fold of goods, dot length desired, (this is 40 inches 
long), before moving square draw line 2. On line 2 dot 3 numbers of scale, 
then 2)4 an d 3^, dot one number above line 2 and y z inch above line 3 for 
shaping skirt, extend dart 5 inches. Draw line 4 from 3^ on line 2 to 11 inches 
on line 3. 



20 



MADAME LEG END RE'S 







SIDE -GORE OF SKIRT. 



Draft same as above, having line 1 to correspond in length with line 4 of 
front. Dot IB inches on line 3. Dot on line 2 three numbers of scale, 2^ for 
dart, extend 1 number above line 2 and dot ^£ inch above line 3, shape as per 
diagram, and draw line 4 to 13 inches on line 3. 



PERFECT FITTING SYSTEM. 



21 




BACK OF SKIRT. 



Draw lines 1 and 2 and 3, then dot at 17 inches on lines 2 and 3, and draw- 
line 4, shape as per diagram, gather the back. 



22 



MADAME LEGENDRKS 



tz 




3 



4 



FULL OR GATHERED WAIST. 



This back is drafted same as others, with exception of iy z numbers of 
scales to allow for gathers. t 



PERFEC7" FITTING SYSTEM. 



28 




FRONT OF FULL WAIST. 



Drafted same as others, except on line 2 after drawing line 5 for width of 
chest, dot 4 numbers on lines 2 and 3 and draw line 6, curve as per diagram and 
eather to suit belt. 



24 



MADAME LEGENDRFJS 




MISSES' BASQUE BACK AND SIDE BODY. 



Select waist scale and draft same as No. 1, using on line 3, \. l / 2 and 4 numbers 
of scale. Extend line bj4 inches on side, 6 inches on back, curve bottom o\ 
basque, sides, neck and arm hole, by the curved square. If a shorter basque is 
desired, cut length suited to the figure. 



PERFECT FITTING SYSTEM. 



25 




MISSES' BASQUE FRONT. 



Drafted same as No. 1, and obtain length of point by measure, dot at 2^ 
numbers on line 2 for neck, dot 3 and 6 numbers on line 8. Extend length 
desired. 

Misses' sleeve cut by diagram in No. 6, with one exception at top, using 2 
inches instead of 2^ inches. 



26 



MADAME LEGENDRE'S 




LADIES' DRAWERS, FRONT AND BACK. 



Measure from waist on hip length desired, say 28 inches, draw line 1 to 2S 
and draw line 2 before moving square, then draw line 3, dotting at 10 inches 
width of bottom. Refer to hip measure and dot on line 2 one-half of hip 
measure and draw line 5, then dot at 18 and 22 numbers of waist scale on line 
2, then 2 numbers above 18, and 6 numbers above 22. 

Dot \2}4. inches below line 2 and draw line 4 and dot at 19 inches, this 
being" half of hip measure. From 19 use curve of square and draw line 5 
through 22 to 6, then turn square and curve line to 28 inches on line 1 for back 
of drawers. 

From 19 on line 4 use curve of square and draw line to 10 inches on line 3. 

For front of drawers, draw line 9 from 19 on line 4 through 18 to 2 numbers, 
then draw line 10 from 2 to 28 on line 1. 



PERFECT FITTING SYSTEM. 27 



Louisville, Ky., Nov. 15, 1889. 
Madame M. Legendre: 

Dear Madame : — The late suits and gowns you made 
for my wife have been duly received by her, and it goes 
without savins:, thev are the most beautifully made and 
most elegant fitting garments it has ever been the 
pleasure of my wife to wear, and we are the least liberal 
in our praises when we say that your ''Perfect Fitting 
System" is a grand success and supplies a long felt want. 

Very respectfully. 

M. SIERSDORFER. 



AGENTS WAHTED. 



We want ladies and gentlemen to sell Madame 
Legendre's Perfect Fitting System. We give 
splendid chances to make money fast and easy. Call 
or address, 

MADAME M. A. LEGENDRE, 

Louisville, Ky. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



0013 973 072 



